Tuesday, 30 October 2012

Vale John Radford

Sadly, Dad has passed away.

I will leave his blog online for the time being; feel free to post a comment below. I've already seen some nice tributes to him posted at Decanter.com: http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/530575/john-radford-dies

Kind regards, James Radford.

Tuesday, 16 October 2012

The Frog Prince Revisited

15-Oct-12 - Jill picks up books for our granddaughter Evie who, at three years old, is just starting to read, and one of them she's found recently is called 'How to be a Little Princess', by Caroline Repchuk, published by Paragon books in 2004. It's a sweet little book with tips on such as how to keep your hands smooth and clean, and how to bake a cake to capture the heart of your handsome prince (they do say that the way to a man's heart is through his stomach). The book also covers some of the potential pitfalls of becoming a princess: wicked stepmothers, ugly sisters and kissing frogs.

This reminded me of a time, twenty-odd years ago, when I was staying in a routière (transport café) in Libourne, near Bordeaux. Over the bar was a postcard (strangely, written in Spanish) which translated as 'before you meet your handsome price, you have to kiss a lot of frogs.'

Going back still further, I remembered writing a story for a children's comic some 30 years ago on a similar theme. It went like this:


A young girl, having read the story of the frog prince, became convinced that this was her path to stardom. Playing near a pond at the bottom of the garden one day, a frog appeared wearing a tiny gold coronet. and announced that he was the prince, and that if she kissed him she would become a princess. Immediately, she picked up the frog and kissed him and, in a moment, was transformed into a frog herself, albeit with a tiara. Feeling rather let down, she said "I though I was going to be a princess". The frog replied "you are: my mum and dad are the king and queen of this pond. I'm the prince, and now you're the princess. That's what you wanted, isn't it?" She sighed: "Well, not exactly."

And the moral of this tale is: check the small print before you sign.

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Monday, 15 October 2012

Manzanilla en Rama - The Latest Entry

15-Oct-12 - Just a reminder that in a previous post (09-Jul-10) I mentioned the 175th anniversary release of Tío Pepe en Rama. Famously, it sold out within three hours of the announcement, proving that there is a market for high-end Sherry even if the market as a whole is gently shrinking (mostly the brown sticky stuff and cheap own-brands). González Byass followed this success up with the launch of its Palma range - a selection of wines which had experienced vigorous flor growth, from the bodega's rarest casks.

Nearly all Sherry producers make a Fino or Manzanilla en Rama but the received wisdom was always that you could only taste them in situ, and that they were so delicate that they wouldn't travel. That was certainly the case when I joined the trade, 40 years ago. Advances in wine technology since have, however, made shipping possible, and plainly there is a market for these classic wines.

The latest bodega to put a wine en rama on to the UK market is Delgado Zuleta, based in Sanlúcar de Barrameda and famous for La Goya Manzanilla. The new launch is Goya XL en Rama and it will shortly be available at Borough Wines in London.


Goya XL Manzanilla en Rama Reposada - 15% abv - 10 years old - (drink within six months) - £22.00 (50 cl)
Full straw; lovely, nutty, savoury aromas; wow! Roasted almonds and walnuts on the mid palate, tremendous complexity, layered and structured, long, long finish and bone, bone dry. A masterpiece. 19/20



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The Importance of Punctuation

15-Oct-12 -  One of things I do regularly is subbing and proof-reading, and I'm continually surprised and irritated by grown men and women who don't seem to know anything about spelling, punctuation, syntax or grammar - even those with a university education. Of these, bad punctuation is one of the worst, as it can change the meaning of what you're trying to say. The following example is not new, but points up the potential problems perfectly - It's a letter from 'Maria' to 'Thomas':

==============================================
Dear Thomas,

I want a man who knows what love is all about. You are
generous, kind, thoughtful. People who are not like you admit
to being useless and inferior. You have ruined me for other
men. I yearn for you. I have no feelings whatsoever when we're
apart. I can be forever happy - will you let me be yours?

Maria
==============================================
Dear Thomas,

I want a man who knows what love is. All about you are
generous, kind, thoughtful people, who are not like you. Admit
to being useless and  inferior. You have ruined me. For other
men, I yearn. For you, I have no feelings whatsoever. When
we're apart, I can be forever happy. Will you let me be?

Yours,

Maria
==============================================

See what I mean?

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Sunday, 14 October 2012

New Books - Rioja and Redoubtable

14-Oct-12 - No, not mine, not yet (working on it: watch this space) but a couple of books have come my way which deserve a mention, one a handy guide to visiting Rioja and the other, well, rather like an art gallery in a box.












The Rioja book first: it's called THE WINE REGION OF RIOJA by Ana Fabiano, and it's a richly-illustrated and beautifully-designed guide to the region. Ana lived in Spain for a number of years, and her research has been meticulous (she has been kind enough to quote my own THE WINES OF RIOJA [still available as an e-book on Amazon] and I am deeply jealous that I was not permitted any pictures in that: she had the support of the Rioja authorities for some of the funding and it certainly shows!). She covers the history, geography and regulation of Rioja wine with profiles of around 40 of the most famous bodegas, but also chapters on Riojano food and traditions such as La Batalla del Vino in Haro. It's aimed at the American market and will no doubt be very useful for people touring the area and visiting the bodegas. I have never met Ana but, judging by the picture on the slip-cover, she is also dash'd attractive.

On, then to Sat Bains's TOO MANY CHIEFS, ONLY ONE INDIAN   (available from the publisher Face Publications, at Sat's restaurant, and also on Amazon). This is a veritable tour de force, packed with stunning photography, recipes, of course but also, most interestingly, a history of how he came be Nottingham's first two-star Michelin restaurant. I am, of course, Nottingham born and bred, and I wrote an article a year or two back for a local magazine on what had been the Hotel Des Clos, later Sat Bains at The Hotel Des Clos and eventually Sat Bains Restaurant with Rooms. Sat's journey from a Sikh family in Derby began when he enrolled in a catering college 'to meet girls', and took off when he won the Roux scholarship in 1999 - one of the toughest challenges in the cheffing business. He achieved national fame as part of the GREAT BRITISH MENU (GBM) team in 2007 with his iconic 'ham, egg and peas' and won his second star in 2011. I've met Sat on a number of occasions, and he is a no-nonsense, bluntly-spoken, hands-on operator with a fine disregard for celebrity. After his success on GBM I asked him if he'd be embarking on a television career. His reply was characteristic: "I've had offers, but I told them to f*** off. My place is in the kitchen."

The book is very much in that vein - fabulous pictures and a no-frills biography of the man himself, and his wife Amanda, whom he met at catering college (his family disowned him as a result). There's also an intro by Heston Blumenthal. This is a landmark in UK food publishing and, incidentally, it weighs a ton.

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Monday, 8 October 2012

Fish and Family

08-Oct-12 - The family came down for the weekend: Evie has just celebrated her third birthday, and Amelia is just over ten months, so they're both pretty active. Evie is a big fan of Peppa Pig, and shares Peppa's passion for splashing about in puddles wearing her little wellies. She also likes watering the plants with her toy watering can, even though it rained most of the time they were here. Jill, typically, cooked enough food for a regiment, including the fabl'd Eversley crispy duck, the recipe for which she has perfected over many years, and which is now better than that in any restaurant I've been to. The secret is to buy fresh ducks and freeze them yourself, and then (don't give my secrets away! Jill). Oh well, it'll just have to wait for Jill's Can't-Be-Arsed Cookbook which I've been threatening to write for years. On Friday they went down to the beach in a brief gap in the clouds - Evie likes to pick up pebbles and bring them home. She also shovels pebbles from the gravel at the bottom of the garden into the big puddle on the patio to make her own 'beach'. Amelia is crawling everywhere, and especially interested in the stairs, although restrained by Claire when she tries to climb up. She can also stand up, holding on to a piece of furniture, but has yet to take her first steps.

On Friday afternoon we had a late lunch/early dinner at The Fish Factory: in the 'summer' I did a couple of jobs  at the Worthing Food Festival (post of 11-Jul-12) for Andy Sparsis, who owns the restaurant, and he offered a meal in return. We love the place: it's modestly priced and the fish are always spot-on fresh (as you'd expect in a seaside town). Indeed, I featured it in CHEF magazine in October 2010 as one of my five favourite restaurants of recent years. This is what I said about it:

This is our local fish restaurant, and is everything a good, seaside fish restaurant should be: simple, plain-scrubbed wooden floors and tables, fresh fish whatever the season, and excellent service. Owner Andy Sparsis comes from a fish-and-chip background, and you can choose your fish fried, grilled, steamed or however you want. There's everything from the plain cod and chips with mushy peas to Dover sole, fish mezze, fish Wellington and lobster cooked any way you like it: excellent value, too.

I scootled along in advance while they all walked (well, not Amelia, of course, but Evie did) - it's about a 10-minute walk. Indeed, we're lucky enough to have three pubs and half a dozen restaurants within walking distance, as well as the seafront cafés and fresh fish direct from the fishermen's boats. We like living in Worthing.

Anyway, Jill and Claire tucked into enormous kettles of mussels, James had the fish stew and I had halibut and chips (their chips are something else). Evie managed a child's portion of pasta and we polished off a couple of bottles of Muscadet between us (not Evie, of course, and Amelia slept through the whole affair in her pushchair). We got back home about 7:00 pm and, well, all fell asleep (well I did, anyway).

On Saturday we looked at Evie's birthday pictures - including a stunning animation by James which I'm not allowed to show you - and they headed home about lunchtime. BTW did you know (I didn't) that there's a new motorway service area between junctions 9 and 10 on the M25? Very handy if you need to stop for a pee, as I usually do between here and Caddington. In the past we had to wait until Ryka's Café at Box Hill, where there was always a temptation to have the 'Biker's Breakfast' which has more calories than a box of chocolates.

All in all a very pleasant, if slightly exhausting, couple of days. We're looking forward to seeing them again at Christmas, by which time Amelia will be one year old. Doesn't time fly (See post of 01-Oct-12)?

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A Little Purity Goes a Long Way

08-Oct-12 - This post is about Purity, the super-premium vodka from Sweden, but first I'd like to have a go about something: cocktails. If a spirit is any good, then it should be enjoyed the way the distiller made it, not 'mucked about with' by adding spurious extra ingredients. Yes, yes, all right we've all at some point enjoyed a bloody Mary or a screwdriver, a Manhattan or even a Harvey Wallbanger but, let's be honest, you wouldn't put a premium spirit in the glass and then drown it. My personal bête noire (or should that be bête blanche?) is Bacardi. This is a spirit which has no colour, no aroma and no taste. Its only purpose seems to be to make soft drinks (particularly cola) alcoholic. So why not just have a glass of wine?

Which brings me to vodka. Everywhere that vodka gets a mention the talk is immediately of cocktails as, indeed, it is with all white spirits. At The Eversley we used to be connoisseurs of vodkas, trying every brand on the market, to the extent that we could line up half a dozen samples blind and identify them. In the end our favourites turned out to be Stolichnaya for Jill, and Wyborowa for me - both vodkas with real taste and individuality, although since Stoli removed the words 'distilled and bottled in Russia' from the label I don't think it's been quite as good. However, we would never put vodkas of that standard in a cocktail - IMHO if you're going to mix your spirit go and get a bottle of Glen's from the corner offo. By the time you've mixed it with orange juice, tomato juice or (ulp!) vermouth any subtlety that the original spirit had will be long gone, and it's that individuality which you're paying for.

A lot of thought seems to have gone into Purity vodka. According to the bumf they've designed a special pot still for it at Ellinge castle in southern Sweden where, so they say, the wheat and barley for the base spirit are grown, with water from their own artesian well. Vodka is usually made in a continuous, or Coffey still, and looking at the 'pot still', it seems to be a combination of both, with the base spirit distilled in the pot and then passed through the continuous columns to provide 34 instances of distillation, during which, again according to the blurb, 90% of the liquid is lost. The angels must be having a party. The company website is extremely detailed, and even incorporates an Argand diagram showing the various flavours in the spirit.

So, bottom line - is it any good? Well, yes, it's very good indeed. 'Purity' is an appropriate name: it's very smooth, subtly flavoured with hints of butter, vanilla and even liquorice, with a lovely long finish, crisp and fresh. I gave it 18/20 and it would be a crime to dilute it with anything, even ice. Put it in the freezer overnight and take it neat.


Is it value for money at £40-£47 a bottle? That depends on how flash is your cash or how fantastic your plastic. But for the same price I could get two bottles of Wyborowa...

Remember that you can usually find wines at www.wine-searcher.com
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