Some Autumn Samples

11-Nov-11 - Gradually working my way through samples which have been arriving since the summer, and starting off today with Norrel Robertson, aka El Escocés Volante ('The Flying Scotsman'). He's an MW and winemaker who's worked everywhere from New Zealand to Chile, including the Douro, Adelaide Hills in Australia and the Loire in France. About ten years ago he fetched up in Aragón, in Spain, and became fascinated with the local grapes, Garnacha and Cariñena. Decades of poverty had left many almost abandoned vineyards with ancient vines, which a new generation had been coaxing back to life. I first met him in 2003 when I was researching the 2004 edition of THE NEW SPAIN: he lives in Calatayud but has worked with most of the bodegas in the three Zaragozano DOs.

 Norrel Robertson MW

He makes these particular wines at the Co-operativa Santo Cristo in the DO Campo de Borja, especially for importer Guy Anderson Wines in the UK. They're available through Sainsbury's and Waitrose.

2010 Marquesa de la Cruz GSM - Garnach/Syrah/Mazuelo 70/20/10 - 14.5% abv - no oak - £6.99
Purple; spiky-spicy Garnacha fruit with some black pepper on the nose; this carries through on the palate, with crisp acidity and tight fruit, very spicy, fresh, delicious, a glugger. 16/20

2010 Marquesa de la Cruz Garnacha Rosado - 14%  abv - a little was fermented in oak - £7.49 - this wine was selected as one of the top 100 in the New Wave Spanish Wine Awards in June, 2011
Pale rose pink; lovely, fresh, spicy Garnacha fruit; delicious, good fruit on the mid and a bit of weight, lipsmacking finish. 16/20

More recently I was contacted by the lovely Marifé Blanco, who represents the Principe de Viana Group. It originated in Navarra, and my first visit there was in 1991, at which time there was a main bodega in Murchante which was working with one of the local co-operatives, as well as marketing the first vintages of Bodegas Guelbenzu in Cascante. I was shown around and given a tasting by the ebullient Tony Barrero, and the wines showed great promise. Twenty years on, much has changed. Tony has retired and the group has expanded to encompass wineries in other parts of Spain, including Castilla y León. Marifé contacted me and asked if I'd like to see samples of their latest vintages, which are made by Group subsidiary Bodegas Inmoiris under the VdlT Castilla y León with the brand-name Clunia.

2009 Clunia Syrah - 14% abv - 12 months in French oak - €10.50
Dark purple; dark, warm fruit with peppery spice, hint of caramel; bigbig fruit on the foretaste - lots of dark plums seasoned with black pepper, some tannins on the finish but the fruit is winning through: drinking splendidly. 18/20

 2009 Clunia Tempranillo - 14% abv - 12 months in French oak - €10.50
Purple; fresh, floral, rose-petal nose hiding a bit of toasty oak; lovely fruit on foretaste, richness on mid with a very nice balance of fruit, oak and tannins. Lovely wine. 18/20

Remember that you can usually find wines at 
www.wine-searcher.com
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